Archive for July, 2009

Chhiring and Eric’s Excellent Adventures

Thursday, July 16th, 2009
friends

Dr. Meyer and Chhiring with K2 in the background

You never know where or when you’ll make a friend for life.  Talus sponsored athlete and technical adviser Dr. Eric Meyer and Sherpa Chhiring Dorje met on the slopes of Everest in 2004.  Since then, they’ve been on many adventures together – both exhilarating and dangerous.  Last summer, they were together on K2 for a Talus-sponsored expedition during the deadly avalanche that killed 11 climbers from other groups– one of the worst events in mountaineering history.  Dr. Meyer helped treat survivors, while Chhiring risked his life to help a stranded Sherpa who had lost his ice axe climb down to safety.

In a recent article by John Meyer for The Denver Post, Chhiring and Meyer talk about their nightmarish experiences during the K2 disaster, and outline their dream project — a return to the world’s tallest mountain to attempt a mission that could rewrite history.  They want to search for the body of Andrew “Sandy” Irvine on Everest’s North Face.

AP File Photo of George Leigh Mallory, left, and Andrew Irvine preparing at camp in June 1924 for their climb to the summit of Mount Everest. They died during the attempt.

AP File Photo of George Leigh Mallory, left, and Andrew Irvine preparing at camp in June 1924 for their climb to the summit of Mount Everest. They died during the attempt.

Irvine was an Englishman who died on the mountain in 1924 while trying to reach the summit of Everest with his good friend, George Leigh Mallory.  Conrad Anker discovered Mallory’s body in 1999, but the body of Irvine has never been found.  Chhiring believes that he saw it while climbing the North face of Everest back in 1995, but had no idea who it could have been at the time.  Some believe Irvine and Mallory may have actually reached the top and died on the descent.  If Chhiring and Meyer find Irvine’s body, and his camera is intact, there may be evidence that could prove that Irvine and Mallory were the first to summit Everest, a full 29 years before Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, changing mountaineering history.

K2 2008

K2 2008

Re-writing history together – sounds like a fitting adventure for two good friends with a shared passion for the mountains.
Stay Out Longer,

John B. Sullivan III aka: ColdAvenger Procoldavengerpro-2

ColdAvenger Pro does Denali with Backpacker Magazine

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009
Courtesy: Backpacker Blog

Courtesy: Backpacker Blog

One of the top gear testers from one of our favorite magazines, BACKPACKER’s Steve Roy, recently returned from his latest adventure/gear thrashing session – climbing Mt. McKinley.   It’s a brutal climb – more than 20,000’ – and more than twenty nights sleeping in a tent.  It’s also dangerous – two very experienced climbers fell to their death at the same time Roy was on the mountain.  Being mentally and physically prepared is paramount, as well as choosing gear you can rely on in the most punishing of scenarios.  Here’s an excerpt from Roy talking about what it took to get ready for the climb:
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“I trained really hard for several months, (but) unfortunately, I had a knee injury about a month prior to leaving, which left my cardiovascular fitness a little shy. This reared its ugly head on summit day, when the need for efficient oxygen exchange was paramount. I basically got through it with willpower and by drawing on my experience from other big mountains. Knowing when to push (like getting up past Denali Pass) and when to coast (like on the less steep terrain heading up to the Arch Deaconess Tower) helped a great deal.

As far as mental conditioning goes, I backpacked the AT in 1998. On more than one occasion, I spent several days stuck in my tent waiting for the rain to subside just long enough to make it to the next shelter or town so I could dry out. That experience really helped me cope at the high camps on Denali, when I was holed up in a tent or building snow walls for 3 days at a time waiting out storms.”

With room for only a few select pieces of gear, Roy chose the ColdAvenger Pro to make the trip with him.  Here’s what he had to say about it:

“Though it looked like something out of Return of the Jedi, it turned out to be far superior to anything I saw other people using. It’s a warm, fuzzy-lined softshell face mask with a raised silicone/rubber piece that you breathe through. The rubber piece allows cold inhaled air to mix with warm exhaled air; not only did it keep my face warm and dry, it protected my airway from constant exposure to cold, dry air. Plus, I could breathe very heavily without fogging up my goggles.”

Courtesy: Backpacker Blog

Courtesy: Backpacker Blog

Glad you made it back safely, Steve … and thanks for the kind words.  Can’t wait to hear about your next adventure, and read all about the gear you used.

coldavengerpro-2Stay Out for the Jedi,

John B. Sullivan III aka ColdAvenger Pro